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the one-oh-one: Tuna Melt from Eisenberg’s [#101]

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and so it begins – my quest for The 101 Best Sandwiches in New York City.

I like having goals. and I like being able to justify to my health-nut of a girlfriend that I have to do this because it’s cultural and I’ve just written a book admitting to actually how un-cultural I actually am. and there are worse ways to gain weight.

anyway.

first up – the last one on the list. I chose this for no other reason than it’s proximity to my office [which - crazily enough, is right around the corner from The Flat Iron Building, which is kind of cool]. there was a closer one on the list, but it’s a small sandwich for a lot of money, so I figured I could leave that until I was closer to the end and this proved to not be one of my numerous ‘themes’ that died out as quickly as they began.

#101 – The Tuna Melt at Eisenberg’s

stepping into Eisenberg’s is stepping into the New York City diner I’d always wanted to visit as a kid. one long counter with brown-cushioned stools that were probably fashionable back in 1929, which just so happens to be the year this joint opened. to the left is the large owner presiding over his small domain, greeting everyone to make sure you’re not famous – ’cause if you are, the photo goes up on the wall. this was also one of those things I think I got from Friends or Seinfeld. he can almost tell who’s coming in ’cause of the list - you’re there for the Tuna Melt and a Matzo Ball soup – it’s pretty obvious. and so, in a few short minutes, it gets back to you in some tinfoil, along with a large Dixie cup full of Jewish goodness [hrm] and there you go.

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I walked my sandwich and soup back to work with me ’cause I’m busy [hrm] and tucked in. it was a good sandwich. probably the best Tuna Melt I’ve ever had. it should be said that I haven’t had a lot of good Tuna Melts. in fact, if it weren’t for the list, I would’ve never ordered a Tuna Melt. tuna + melted cheese does not sound good to me, but this one was. somehow, they kept loads of mayo out while still keeping it from being dry. you can get it on all sorts of bread as well – I don’t remember which one I ordered ’cause I was too busy looking at a photo of Philip Seymour Hoffman. the soup wasn’t anything to be bowled over by. you’d expect the Chosen People’s Broth to taste of rich history, but it didn’t. nothing wrong with it, just forgettable.

all-in-all, a fine sandwich in an amazing setting. the entire tab ran me $14.60, which was a bit steep, but it’s in the middle of NYC and I would gladly pay $10 for a good lunch anyway, so I’m out $5…  which is worth it to have stepped back to the ’30′s.

 

 

from a [Brooklyn] basement on a hill.

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‘I have an idea’ said my friend David, a few weeks ago on the phone, ‘it’s kind of weird, you might get wet and probably can’t stand up in it, but it’s something…’

sold.

David, who I hope will let me write about him more in the coming months, was someone who I’d always wanted to be like… but more on that later. what I did know is that he had a very quirky/artsy side to him and I knew that if he was suggesting it, then there had to be a major draw.

so I said ‘yes’. right there on the phone. before even seeing it. he wanted me to come by and check it out, but I already knew that I would like it.

I live in a basement, in case you weren’t following. and I can’t stand straight up when walking under the beams – but that’s okay. it does get wet here when it rains, but that’s okay because 90% of the time, I’ll have a dry home.

wait – I can picture your face right now. that nurturing look made when reacting to someone’s silver lining. but let me stop you right there. I’m making money. a decent amount of money. and I could easily afford to pay $1500 a month to share an apartment with a stranger I met on craigslist.

but I don’t want to pay $1500 a month to share an apartment with a stranger I met on craigslist.

I want to live here.

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… I want to live here and I do.

I live in a basement.

more photos to come of the house itsself – I mean, in-suite laundry, a backyard with a bbq grill [unheard of in nyc] and we have a baby grand piano in the middle of our kitchen. banjos hang on the walls and are played whenever bourbon is served. books overload the shelves. an original print from ‘mr. brainwash’ hangs behind me. it’s the most funkiest of places with the funkiest of people [two roommates musicians/sound designers, two of them in theater] and it’s in the gorgeous tree-lined area of park slope. at night, if you look down our street, you can see the statue of liberty.

so – to recap:

- I get a job with a very hip ‘zine in manhattan [more on that in a bit].

- my first weekend in town, I spend it in a 50-million dollar hampton beach house.

- two days later, I have a book launch party that a lot of people showed up to.

- that next weekend, I move here.

it’s all gone a bit silly, if you ask me.

and so it goes.

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I’m on a bus headed to the Hamptons. and last week, I moved to New York City. it’s all gone a little bit silly. the other night I had to stop and walk into a tattoo parlor and get a new one. it was one of those moments when I wanted to remember. walking with friends, through Brooklyn. I had just moved to New York City. for a good job – and I hate writing that for many reasons. how long I had wanted no part of it. one of my bosses reads this sometimes, so admitting that I walked into the most amazing opportunity means negotiating for more money won’t ever happen. but that’s okay, ’cause I’m being given a very good salary and every day I cross that wonderful bridge and see Manhattan. now maybe that doesn’t mean anything to you or maybe it does – but there’s a magic that happens every morning when I see that skyline. I write like no one has ever said this about New York City before.

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I’m late for meeting friends cause I’m too busy taking photos. that’s what this was about, an apology for bein’ away and then I’d point you to my daily little shots from around this town. I’m done posting the diaries – if you want to watch ‘em, they can be found here. they’ll help the book make sense. I wrote a book as well. I wrote a book and then I moved to New York City. today my nephew turns 1 year old and I can’t wait to tell him about his first birthday I’ll be celebrating up in a gorgeous house. you won’t believe this house, brother. I didn’t believe I was moving here. last year I got a little tipsy when he was born. my nephew, that is. he turns me to mush. this town makes me say the f-word a lot. and a few times I found myself sayin’ ‘hey, I’m pretty fucking [see] happy about right now’.

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there’s a really pretty girl who’s far away and I wish she could see all of this stuff, but then again, I might want to fix up the basement before she comes. oh yes, I’m moving into a basement tomorrow when I’m back from the Hamptons.I moved to New York City and now I’m headed to the Hamptons and then I’ll come back and move into a basement of a cool house and then I’ll wake up on Monday and go to work, a work I like and then that night, I’m going to have a launch party for the book I just wrote.

ain’t that a kick in the pants.

the mini-oregon road trip: day 03 [astoria]

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I have a list in my head of places I want to go. I also have a list in my head of lesser-known places that I’ve been, and I want to go back to:

Cesky Krumlov [Czech Republic]

Wicklow [Ireland]

Macon [Georgia]

Hama [Syria]

… and let’s go ahead and add Astoria, Oregon to that list. yes, yes, those that have gone usually go to pay homage to The Goonies, which should be something everyone does. and, it has to be said, it’s every bit as magic as you think it will be. the house is easy to find, the owner is a sweetheart [a Goonie, herself] and should you be lucky enough to pass anyone else walking down the long driveway when you’re walking up, you’ll exchange a smile reserved for those geeky enough to be there.

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but, Goonies aside, the town itself is one of the most fascinating and haunted places I’ve ever been. even just coming within one block of the old Astor hotel [above] you can tell this. the Liberty Theater. any of the given streets. perhaps it was because I walked around on a day where it was dark and drizzly, but the streets reminded me of something out of Detroit – even though I’ve never been.

the architecture was a despondent hybrid of Colonial-meets-coastal. the people hard from the weather, the fishing. two funeral homes sit across caddy-corner from each other, either in competition, or location preference.

it’s a place hard to write, and only those who have been could compare notes. but I could have stayed for days, taking the same photos over-and-over. heading out to Cannon Beach. sit in the same hotel room. drinking in less-than-desirable spots.

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and I need to go back.

Tim and Robin would fall ill to something we had eaten the night before [me, fine - a Teflon-coated stomach thanks to years in Asia] and so we’d head back early, timing our drive perfectly for the white-knuckle trip back, up and around Mt. Hood, in a blizzard.

we’d save the rest of the tour for another day, another time.

but trust that this town, and this area of the world, needs to, and will be, seen again.

[more photos here. apologies for the spots. it was raining. a lot.]

 

the mini-oregon road trip: day two [portland]

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look, I got nothin’ but love for Portland, OR. to me, if you have to live in a city in this area, this is the one to pick. San Francisco is great, but it’s still California. and Seattle is fun, but grim. I first came to Portland many years ago and fell in love with how quiet the downtown was and it’s the same today. people, while not as health conscious as they are in Bend, still ride their bikes to work, and can’t be seen anywhere in the city on the weekend. and you got Powell’s.

but Tim, on the way there, told me to pay attention to something and I did. and, after a few days there [even in the nicest of hotels], I’m prone to agree with him.

great town; but it’s dark.

and no one knows why.

I’d mention this to a few more people and they’d point out the homeless population [many would refer to this as the 'meth' population - homelessness being simply subsequent], and, the shocking title of ‘America’s Most Unhappy City’.

don’t know if I agree with that, but it does have a cloud over it.

we, as a group, didn’t do a whole lot besides hit the pubs, not hit Voodoo Donuts and stalk Dominique Wilkins, who was in town with his previous team. so, to make up for it, I’ll throw in a few photos.

it is a fun town to shoot.

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… more photos up here.

next up, Astoria.

the mini-oregon road trip: day one [hood river]

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the Pacific Northwest has always facinated me, probably because it’s the closest thing we have to Ireland. rocky, wet and unforgiving. none of this fancy Southern Californian stuff. a coast for men, of fishing and loss. green hills. good beer. people with facial hair because it keeps them warm and not for fashion. big trees. etc.

so I hobbled back from my sunburn in Australia to join three friends. two of them once spent 6 weeks camping from Los Angeles-to-Anchorage and knew this area well. knew it well enough to move here, if that says anything.

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our first top was the darling town of Hood River. home to 3 breweries [maybe more?] and a setting loved by anyone who stops there for a day. should you ever find yourself thinking about driving from San Francisco-to-Portland, make the detour to both Bend and this spot – well worth sacrificing 3-4 days.

it’s a small town and a nice town and I think you’d like it.

should you be a fancy beer fan, here is how the breweries ranked:

1. Full Sail – forever our ‘go-to’ choice for lager [Session]. a nice, big and clean brewery that balanced dangerously on ‘corporate’, but made for a drinkable amber, and two in-house seasonal makes. Tim also swears by the Session Black.

2. Double Mountain – they make an I.R.A. that we’ve been drinking here in Bend for a while, so no shock we had a few more in the house where it’s made.

3. Horse Feathers – great location [see above], but for some reason, they only had one waitress working the entire joint, so we ended up leaving. after spending 15 minutes online to find a website for them, I gave up. thumbs-down.

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… we spent most of our drinking hours at the very hip little Passport Pub [no website either?]. highly suggested – not to mention Mac and Jack’s African Amber [my #1 all-time favorite beer ever in the entire world period].

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Hood River. again, worth a day in the winter, worth two or more in warmer weather…

next up, Portland.

for the chester copperpot in all of us…

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Mikey: Hi Willie. Oh, I’m Mike Walsh. You’ve been expecting me, haven’t you? Well I made it. I beat you. I got here in one piece… so far. So… that’s why they call you “One-Eyed Willie”… One-Eyed Willie… We had a long comment, huh, Willie? You know something, Willie? You’re the first Goonie.

[Mikey realizes the others have boarded the ship]

Mikey: Yo. Hi guys. How’s it going? This is Willie… One-Eyed Willie. Say hi, Willie. Those are my friends… the Goonies. How long have you guys been standing there?

Brand: Long enough, Mikey. Long enough.

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hurrah for beer.

hi.

I barely got a chance to unpack my bags before heading off again.

this time, it’s a road trip with 3 friends around Oregon tasting beer.

yuck, I know.

this is written from our first stop – Hood River.

next it’s Portland.

then Astoria.

Newport.

and more.

even though they’re making fun of me, I have a little notepad and am writing down every microbrew we try. then I’ll come back and write all about it and someone will say ‘boy! that’s a swell idea’ and then I can stick it to them!

or something like that.

for what it’s Perth

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it’s funny to think that Perth, the ‘Dallas of Australia’, is the most remote place in the world. when that phrase is mentioned, our minds go to deep Africa or somewhere inaccessible.

but no. it’s Perth. and I got to go there.

and brother, lemme tell you something: it’s not only the most remote place in the world, it is by far the most expensive place I’ve ever been to.

hands-down.

no question.

and that’s something you should know… ’cause I sure didn’t – showing up with my few [borrowed] hundred dollar bills.

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$8 for a pint is the going rate.

$80 for a dinner for 2 is the going rate.

and no one seems to blink an eye.

a friend told me that no one notices because everyone is paid a high rate, but, but, not everyone who goes to Perth works in Perth.

[not everyone who goes to Perth works at all!]

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WA is a pretty part of the world, as you can hopefully at least get a hint of from the photos.

and I’m not saying ‘don’t go’.

I’m saying ‘take 3 times the amount of money you think you’d get through’.

western australia photos

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look, I like Australians. always have. their resilient humor, inherent gypsydom and constant openness to an afternoon ‘session’ at the pub are qualities we could all learn from. during this trip, I’ve met nothing but good spirits.

that being said, it’s not a place that inspires me photographically. sure, there are drop-dead gorgeous secluded beaches and an almost Tim Burton-esque landscape that allows a single scary growth to be surrounded by nothingness, but it, much like the U.S., is just too young to provide the type of aging metal and mortar that captivates me.

here are a handful of shots from wine country, our campervan tour and more up here – but for some reason, I feel the need to preface this collection with numerous explanations.

maybe it’s because I’ve already shot OZ a few years back – subsequently, the first outing with my now-glued on Leica, or maybe I don’t know.

great people though…

and my 2nd favorite beer in the whole world.